Events: The Battle of Ceva, 16 April 1796; The Battle of San Michele, 19 April 1796; The occupation of Mondovi, 22 April 1796; The Armistice of Cherasco, 28 April 1796; The fall of the House of Savoy, 8 December 1798

The trail: The Piedmont trail traces the last military obstacles standing between the French army and the Piedmontese capital of Turin. Investigating the two defensive positions at Ceva and San Michele, still confined to the rugged terrain of the Ligurian mountains, the trail continues to the plain of Piedmont, a track that is accompanied by an explosion in tourist attractions. The first stop is Mondovi, a charming old town that played an important role in the early days of the House of Savoy. The Napoleonic highlight of the trail plays out in the charming town of Cherasco, famous for the armistice concluded between Bonaparte and the Piedmontese. Finishes in Turin, the Piedmontese capital, the trail uncovers the life of the Piedmontese royal court, the House of Savoy, and the Jacobin triennium (1796-1799).

Sights:

Montezemolo: On 16 April the French forces resumed the pursuit of the Piedmontese. At Montezemolo Bonaparte’s party made a brief halt to enjoy the panoramic view of Piedmont. The view is indeed breathtaking.

Ceva ridge: The Piedmontese Commander in Chief Colli staged the first stand in the defence works of Ceva, an extensive defence system that controlled one of the more important entrance routes to Piedmont for thousands of years. Unfortunately very little remains of the defences. A drive along the Ceva ridge is still worthwhile.

Palazzo del Carretto (Lesegno): The light encounter at Ceva never really threatened the composition of Colli’s command but still under a lot of pressure, he chose to abandon Ceva and leap to yet another formidable defence complex at San Michele. The plan was worked out in Palazzo del Carretto in the small village of Lesegno. A few days later Bonaparte would install his headquarters in the same palace. The palace is not open to the public but the panoramic view from the raised village of Lesegno alone demands a visit.

San Michele bridge: Although one should have thought that San Michele’s defences would constitut the largest of the obstacles to a French breakthrough, it was in fact the river running in front of the defences, which prevented the French from engaging Colli in a decisive battle on 19 April. The modern bridge gives a good indication of the nature of the fighting.

Belvedere, Mondovi: From San Michele Colli’s retreat quickly evolved into a rout along the road to Mondovi. After some wait – it took some persuasion to get Mondovi’s authorities to open the gates – the French found their way to the town’s storage rooms. From the Belvedere, a platform located in the northern end of town, Bonaparte inspected the neighbouring terrain.

Palazzo Salmatoris, Cherasco: Meanwhile Piedmont’s King sent out envoys to negotiate an armistice with Bonaparte. Under little ceremonial grandeur, the Armistice of Cherasco was signed on 28 April in Palazzo Salmatoris, the town’s main cultural centre today. Opening hours vary according to exhibitions.

Bonaparte’s sightseeing, Cherasco: Bonaparte took an instant liking to the charming medieval town of Cherasco and, granting himself a bit of spare time, he toured the town’s main sights, including several churches, the Visconti castle and the bastions (later destroyed following his orders).

Museo Risorgimento, Turin: The role played by the House of Savoy in the unification of Italy has come to mean that Italy’s most important museum dedicated to the Italian process of unification (the Risorgimento) is located in Turin. Napoleonic artefacts are not scarce in the museum. Tues-Sun 9am-7pm.

Armeria Reale, Turin: Very few of the city’s arms museum’s artefacts relate directly to Napoleonic events, such as General Stengel’s sword. The magnificent museum is definitely worth a visit though. Tues & Thurs 2.30pm-7.30pm, Wed, Fri & Sat 9am-2pm, Sun closed.

Palazzo Reale, Turin: Home to the Savoy family for more than 200 years, the royal palace offers a perfect insight to the life of the Piedmontese kings. Tues-Sun 9am-7pm

Galeria Sabauda: , Turin Of interest when exploring the lifestyle of the royal house is also the Galeria Sabauda, an impressive testimony to several generations of the Savoyard princes’ taste in art. Tues-Sun 9am-7.30pm (winter time), Tues, Wed, Thurs, Fri & Sun 8.30am-7.30pm, Sat 8.30am-11am (summer time).