This travel planner offers an overview of historic trails to do with Napoleon's campaign in northern Italy 1796 – 1797, a spectacular chapter in military history which saw the rise of the young Napoleon's military genius.

Travelling in Napoleon's footsteps

What to bring: Provided that one has access to a car being a Napoleonic traveller is actually very easy. Some of the trails require a bit of hiking and a pair of boots is a good choice, often a good pair of runners will suffice. A compass is always a good idea, not so much for finding directions but more as a way of exploring the terrain, working out the military manoeuvres. When examining battlefields hiking maps (1:25,000/50,000) are also useful. Kompass and Instituto Geografico Centrale publish some of the best hiking maps.

On the shelf: For a thorough reading of Napoleon’s military exploits David Chandler’s expertly written The Campaigns of Napoleon still stands out as the most authoritative account. For a detailed examination of the Italian campaign Martin Boycott-Brown’s recently published The Road to Rivoli is indispensable, and particularly useful to the reader interested in the plight of the soldiers. The older account by Elijah Adlow, Napoleon in Italy 1796 –1797, is also worth mentioning but should only be acquired by those interested in the more strategic aspects of warfare. For background reading of the French Revolution Christopher Hibbert’s The French Revolution comes highly recommended.

Second-hand bookshops: abeboks.com

On the web: Needles to say an endless amount of web sites thrive on Napoleon Bonaparte. Here some of the more serious sitesin English are listed:

napoleon.org: Probably the most serious and in-depth site on the web dedicated to the life and times of Napoleon.

historydata.com: The author of The Road to Rivoli, Martin Boycott-Brown’s own site contains valuable information on Bonaparte’s campaign in Italy.

The trails:

Trail I. Glory at Montenotte - Military tour de force in the Ligurian mountains

Trail II. Peril in the Bormida Valley - The French army on the verge of collapse

Trail III. Defeating the Piedmontese - Napoleon dictates the terms of peace

Trail IV. Mythical Fame at Lodi - Napoleon's manoeuvre of strategic penetration and army propaganda

Trail V. The Coffers of Milan - Revolutionary politics, art thefts, army requisitions and Josephine

Trail VI. Revolt in Pavia - Napoleon's brutal suppression of the popular uprising in Binasco and Pavia

Trail VII. The Austrians Defeated at Borghetto - Venetian politics and the end of the Austrian advance

Trail VIII. The Bitter Siege of Mantua - The Austrians suffer eight months of siege.

Trail IX. Acute Manoeuvring at Castiglione - Napoleon prevails on battlefield of Catsiglione

Trail X. Secluded March to Bassano - The French army ventures into the Tyrol

Trail XI. Near Defeat at Arcole - Napoleon barely pulls off a manoeuvre of strategic penetration

Trail XII. Glory at Rivoli - Magnificent victory on the shores of Lake Garda

Trail XIII. Popular Uprising in Verona - The French quench another popular revolt and bring down Venice

TRAIL I. Glory at Montenotte

Events: the Battle of Montenotte (11 – 12 April 1796); the revolutionary coup attempt in Genoa (22 May 1797); the fall of the aristocratic Republic of Genoa (6 June 1797).

Stops: Montenotte, Savona, Genoa.

Duration: 2 days

The trail: The Montenotte trail primarily delves into Bonaparte’s first military exploits in Italy. Restricted to the rugged terrain of the Ligurian mountains, the trail investigates the military manoeuvres revolving around Monte Negino and Monte Tesero, operations that brought the Austrian advance to a standstill. The main military points of reference are easily accessed but with hardly any traces left, the green, rolling hills of Montenotte best serves to illustrate the positional warfare characterising the first days of fighting. Including a visit to Savona, the trail further explores the whereabouts of Bonaparte during the time of the battle. In Genoa the trail proceeds to explore the collision between the Genoese oligarchy and the French revolutionary army, culminating in the fall of the old Republic in June 1797.

Suggested sights to visit:

Monte Negino & Monte Pra, Montenotte. All accounts of the Battle of Montenotte concentrate on the fighting over Mt. Negino. A key strongpoint in the area’s transportation network, the French warded off several Austrian assaults on 11 April. Their troops having been reinforced in the course of the night, the French fell on the Austrians positioned on the slopes of Monte Pra the following morning. Both heights are part of a marked hiking area.

Bric Menau & Bric del Tesoro, Montenotte. On the second day of fighting (12 April), the French General Massena marched up the ridge parallel to Monte Negino to fall on the Austrians at Bric Menau and Bric del Tesoro. Remains of the original defence works still exist at Bric del Tesero. Both heights are part of a marked hiking area.

Church of Madonna di Savona. A few kilometres south of Montenotte in the village of Madonna di Savona, the French turned the local church into an army hospital. Open to the public.

Palazzo Vescovile, Savona. Bonaparte had his headquarters installed in the bishop’s palace during the first few days of fighting. Open by appointment only.

Fortezza del Priamar, Savona. The most imposing structure in the city, the16 th century fortress constituted a serious obstacle to the patrolling British fleet. Open to the public.

Palazzo Ducale, Genoa. The left wing of the Palazzo Ducale, the Palazzo di Alberto Fieschi, was the Doge’s residence from 1340 onwards. The Doge was the highest office of the aristocratic republic. Not open to the public.

Galleria Nazionale di Palazzo Spinola, Genoa. Apart from the gallery’s art collection, demonstrating the tastes of one of Genoa’s more important aristocratic families, the Spinolas, the interior design of the 16 th century Palazzo Spinola offers a perfect insight into the lifestyle of Genoese patricians in the 17 th and 18 th centuries. Tues-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 2pm-7pm.

Palazzo di San Giorgio, Genoa. The palace housed the republic’s most prestigious credit institution, the Banco di San Giorgio. Opening hours: Sat 10am-6pm.

Via Garibaldi, Genoa. By far the most spectacular concentration of old patrician residences in the city, Via Garibaldi boasts several splendid 16 th century merchant palaces, some of which are open to the public.

Museo Risorgimento, Genoa. The term Risorgimento refers to the period in Italy’s history that led to the unification of the peninsula in the second half of the 19 th century. As most of Risorgimento museums will have rooms dedicated to the revolutionary and Napoleonic experiences it is always worth paying them a visit. Genoa’s Museo Risorgimento is no exception. Closed at thetime of writing.

Palazzo Reale, Genoa. Once the residence of one of the more wealthy Genoese families, the Savoyard Kings took over in the 19 th century providing yet another good example of the lifestyle of the Savoyard court (see chapter 5). Opening hours: 9am-2pm.

Trail II. Peril in the Bormida Valley

Events: The Battle of Millesimo (13 – 14 April 1796); the Battle of Dego (13 – 15 April 1796).

Stops: Carcare, Dego, Millesimo, Cosseria.

Duration: 1-2 days

The trail: Tracing Bonaparte’s much-celebrated wedge manoeuvre that splintered the communication between the allied command centres, the Bormida trail is primarily a military tour de force. Set in a more densely populated area than the Montenotte trail it is much friendlier to regular sightseeing counting castles, old bridges and churches, even a Napoleonic museum located in the charming medieval town of Millesimo. The highlight of the trail is the castle ruins of Castello di Cosseria, the location of the Battle of Millesimo. The two battlefields of Dego and Millesimo provide yet more perfect examples of the positional warfare characterising the first days of the Italian Campaign.

Suggested sights to visit:

Castello di Cosseria, Cosseria. On 13 April one of Bonaparte’s top generals, Augereau, was suppose to clear the road to Montezemolo. Instead, a small allied garrison entrenched in the castle ruins of Cosseria checked his advance. Considerably raised above the valley bed on the eastern side of Millesimo,there should be no doubt that the castle once controlled the valley stretch of Millesimo. The castle is a very good example of the positional warfare of the first part of the campaign. Even more striking though, is the immediate revelation that any attempt to attack the castle walls would have been suicidal. There are no restrictions on the hours of visiting.

Ponte della Gaietta, Millesimo. One of the only fortified bridges left standing in Italy, the Ponte della Gaietta in Millesimo is often shown in military prints depicting the Battle of Millesimo.

Palazzo Comunale, Millesimo. While the fighting over Cosseria raged, the French took control of Millesimo and established local headquarters in the Palazzo Comunale. Located in Millesimo’s main square, the building is of great interestas the room in which Bonaparte spent the night after the Battle of Millesimo has been preserved. The building is open during normal working hours.

Santuario del Deserto, Millesimo. During one of the many collapses in discipline, the isolated church fell victim to the French marauding soldiers. The church is well signposted from Millesimo. Open to the public.

Museo Napoleonico, Millesimo. Dedicated to the battles in the Bormida valley, the museum’s several artefacts, including old maps, proclamations, and archaeological findings, make it an interesting place to visit, indispensable for the Napoleonic traveller. The museum is located at the eastern entrance ofMillesimo at the foot of the renovated Castello di Millesimo. The museum is open by appointment only.

Dego heights, Dego. Just as the fighting at Millesimo died down, fighting flared up at Dego in the Bormida valley. The best way to get an idea of the Dego battleground is to retrace the French commander La Harpe’s steps to the western heights of the Dego theatre, the sector that saw most of the fighting between 14 and 15 April.

Castello di Dego, Dego. An integral part of the dramatic events on 14 and 15 April, the Dego castle, commanding the valley from atop of a considerable bluff, not only offers a panoramic view of the valley but it also illustrates the nature of the positional warfare that characterised the first part of the campaign. There are no restrictions on the hours of visiting.

Headquarters, Carcara. A few kilometres south of Dego lies the town of Carcare, where Bonaparte directed events from 12 – 14 April while his generals, Augereau and Massena, were fighting simultaneously at Millesimo and Dego respectively. The house is found in Piazza Germano, which is only open to the public in the sense that part of the house is occupied by a pharmacy.

Ponte Romano, Dego. Situated just outside of the village of Rochetta, abit south of Dego, the ancient Roman bridge was crossed by La Harpe’s troopson-route to Dego.

Trail III. Defeating the Piedmontese

Events: the Battle of Ceva (16 April 1796); the Battle of San Michele (19 April 1796); the occupation of Mondovi (22 April 1796); the Armistice of Cherasco (28 April 1796); the fall of the House of Savoy (8 December 1798).

Stops: Montezemolo, Ceva, Lesegno, San Michele, Mondovi, Cherasco, Turin.

Duration: 2-3 days

The trail: The Piedmont trail traces the last military obstacles standing between the French army and the Piedmontese capital of Turin. Investigating the two defensive positions at Ceva and San Michele, still confined to the rugged terrain of the Ligurian mountains, the trail continues to the plain of Piedmont, a track that is accompanied by an explosion in tourist attractions. The first stop is Mondovi, a charming old town that played an important role in the early days of the House of Savoy. The Napoleonic highlight of the trail plays out in the charming town of Cherasco, famous for the armistice concluded between Bonaparte and the Piedmontese. Finishing in Turin, the Piedmontese capital, the trail uncovers the life of the Piedmontese royal court, the House of Savoy, and the Jacobin triennium (1796-1799).

Suggested sights to visit:

Montezemolo. On 16 April the French forces resumed the pursuit of the Piedmontese. At Montezemolo Bonaparte’s party made a brief halt to enjoy the panoramic view of Piedmont.

Ceva ridge, Ceva. The Piedmontese Commander in Chief Colli staged the first stand in the defence works of Ceva, an extensive defence system that controlled one of the more important entrance routes to Piedmont for thousands of years. Unfortunately very little remains of the defences. A drive along the Ceva ridge is still worthwhile.

Palazzo del Carretto, Lesegno. The light encounter at Ceva never really threatened the composition of Colli’s command but still under a lot of pressure, he chose to abandon Ceva and leap to yet another formidable defence complex at San Michele. The plan was worked out in Palazzo del Carretto in the small village of Lesegno. A few days later Bonaparte would install his headquarters in the same palace. The palace is not open to the public but the panoramic view from the raised village of Lesegno alone demands a visit.

San Michele bridge, San Michele. Although one should have thought that San Michele’s defences would constitute the largest of the obstacles to a French breakthrough, it was in fact the river running in front of the defences, which prevented the French from engaging Colli in a decisive battle on 19 April. The modern bridge gives a good indication of the nature of the fighting.

Belvedere, Mondovi. From San Michele Colli’s retreat quickly evolved into a rout along the road to Mondovi. After some wait – it took some persuasion to get Mondovi’s authorities to open the gates – the French found their way to the town’s storage rooms. From the Belvedere, a platform located in the northern end of town, Bonaparte inspected the neighbouring terrain.

Palazzo Salmatoris, Cherasco. Meanwhile Piedmont’s King sent out envoys to negotiate an armistice with Bonaparte. Under little ceremonial grandeur, the Armistice of Cherasco was signed on 28 April in Palazzo Salmatoris, the town’s main cultural centre today. Opening hours vary according to exhibitions.

Bonaparte’s sightseeing, Cherasco. Bonaparte took an instant liking to the charming medieval town of Cherasco and, granting himself a bit of spare time, he toured the town’s main sights, including several churches, the Visconti castle and the bastions (later destroyed following his orders).

Museo Risorgimento, Turin. The role played by the House of Savoy in the unification of Italy has come to mean that Italy’s most important museum dedicated to the Italian process of unification (the Risorgimento) is located in Turin. Napoleonic artefacts are not scarce in the museum. Tues-Sun 9am-7pm.

Armeria Reale, Turin. Very few of the city’s arms museum’s artefacts relate directly to Napoleonic events, such as General Stengel’s sword. The magnificent museum is definitely worth a visit though. Tues & Thurs 2.30pm-7.30pm, Wed, Fri & Sat 9am-2pm, Sun closed.

Palazzo Reale, Turin. Home to the Savoy family for more than 200 years, the royal palace offers a perfect insight to the life of the Piedmontese kings. Tues-Sun 9am-7pm.

Galeria Sabauda, Turin. Of interest when exploring the lifestyle of the royal house is also the Galeria Sabauda, an impressive testimony to several generations of the Savoyard princes’ taste in art. Tues-Sun 9am-7.30pm (wintertime), Tues, Wed, Thurs, Fri & Sun 8.30am-7.30pm, Sat 8.30am-11am (summertime).

Trail IV. Mythical Fame at Lodi

Events: The death of General La Harpe (8/9 May 1796); the Battle of Lodi (10 May 1796).

Stops: Codogno, Lodi

Duration: 1 day

The trail: The resumption of military activities after the armistice had been concluded brings the traveller to Lodi, one of the mythological highlights of Bonaparte’s campaign. Forming a perfect framework for exploring Bonaparte’s accomplishments at the famous Bridge of Lodi, the modern, affluent city of Lodi has successfully preserved the old city nucleus. The battle in itself was a rather insignificant clash but owing to Bonaparte’s personal involvement in the combat the action has gone down in Napoleonic history as a major event. Bonaparte was to stay in Lodi a few days, preparing among other things the entry of Milan, and the trail accordingly proceeds to explore his business in the city. The Lodi trail also traces the death of General La Harpe, a much-esteemed general who died amidst the chaotic street fighting unfolding during the night of 8/9 May in the town of Codogno.

Suggested sights to visit:

Piazza XX Settembre, Codogno. After the French army burst through the Austrian defences along the River Po at Piacenza, it set out to strengthen its positions on the river’s northern bank. In the night of 8/9 May General La Harpe’s men, resting in Codogno, fell victim to a surprise enemy attack during which La Harpe was killed. The town of Codogno is not the most interesting of places and a visit is only recommended for the die-hard Napoleonic traveller.

Bridge of Lodi, Lodi. Bonaparte’s breach of the Austrian line of defence came with such force that only a headless flight across the River Adda saved the Austrians from destruction. On 10 May Bonaparte personally took command of the attack on the Austrian rear guard left behind to guard the crossing at Lodi. Although the original wooden bridge was destroyed in 1859, the modern bridge, situated in more or less the same place, offers a very good impression of what the scenery would have looked like in 1796.

Church of San Francesco, Lodi. Several of Lodi’s church towers offered the French vantage points. Bonaparte climbed the steeple of San Francesco to inspect the enemy defences. Open to the public.

Palazzo Modignani, Lodi. During the few days the army was allowed some rest Bonaparte stayed in the Baroque Palazzo Modignani. Not open to the public.

Palazzo Vescovile, Lodi. On 11 May Bonaparte dined with the Bishop of Lodi. The building houses the town’s diocesan museum. Sun 3pm-6pm.
Palazzo Sommariva, Lodi. The flight of the Austrian army rendered the road to Milan open to the French. Not knowing what to expect from the French, the Milanese sent a delegation to Lodi to discuss the imminent occupation. The meeting took place in Palazzo Sommariva. Not open to the public.

Museo Civico, Lodi. Lodi’s main museum is mainly dedicated to the region’s archaeological history and its famous ceramics industry, but it also keeps a wonderful painting of the Battle of Lodi. Sat & Sun 3pm-6.30pm (winter), 9.30am-12.30pm (summer), except August (closed).

Trail V. The Coffers of Milan

Events: Bonaparte enters Milan (15 May 1796); Josephine arrives in Milan (13 July 1796); the French army’s art requisitions (1796); Bonaparte’s court life (summer 1797); the establishment of the Cisalpine Republic (29 June 1797).

Stops: Milan

Duration: 2 days

The trail: The capital of Lombardy and the most important city in Northern Italy, Milan was destined to play a central role during the campaign. That Bonaparte’s stepson Eugene Beauharnais was to rule in Milan from1805 to 1814 cemented further Milan’s associations with Napoleon’s France. Starting with Bonaparte’s entry, the Milan trail tracks the French army’s art requisitions, Josephine’s arrival to join her husband, the republican fervour provoked by the French invasion and finally the installation of the Cisalpine Republic. The trail includes several of Milan’s most important tourist attractions such as the Ambrosiana, subject to the art commissioners’ raids, the Palazzo Reale, hosting Bonaparte’s welcoming party, La Scala, celebrating Josephine’s arrival, and the Brera, an art museum that would never have involved into the world class tourist attraction it is had it not been for Napoleon.

Suggested sights to visit:

Porta Romana. The final details having been sorted out by Massena, Bonaparte entered the city through Porta Romana on 15 May 1796, a gate that had originally been erected to celebrate the arrival of the Austrian Empress Maria Teresa half a century earlier.

Palazzo Reale. The celebrations on 15 May culminated in a large banquet held in the former palace of the Austrian governor, Ferdinand. Having only just undergone a sweeping remodelling in line with the fashionable neo-classical design, the palace composed a perfect frame for a grand celebration. As for Ferdinand, he had vacated Milan a few days previously. Tue-Sun 9am-5.30pm.

Castello Sforzesco. Apart from the garrison left behind by Ferdinand in the massive fortified castle, the French were free to take control of the city. Today the castle houses the Museo d’Arte Antica. Tue-Sun 9am-5.30pm.

Palazzo Serbelloni. Bonaparte was supposed to have stayed in Palazzo Reale, but swayed by the hospitality of a certain Gian Galeazzo Serbelloni he was accommodated in Palazzo Serbelloni, another building that had only just been refurbished. Not open to the public.

Cathedral square. Adjacent to the city’s governing bodies the cathedral square was a natural choice when the revolutionaries decided to erect the symbolic tree of liberty.

Bibliotheca Ambrosiana. The magnificent Ambrosiana collection didn’t escape the attention of the French art commissioners for long. Fortunately there was a natural limit to the amount of works of art the French were able to transport to Paris. The Ambrosiana is still one of the most magnificent museums in Milan. Tue-Sun 10am-5.30pm.

Santa Maria delle Grazie. Doubly unfortunate, the church lost a painting by Titian and was converted into a stable. Leonardo de Vinci’s The Last Supper was left untouched. Open to the public.

Pinacoteca di Brera. If it hadn’t been for the many years of Napoleonic rule following the invasion in 1796-97, the Brera collection of art might never have evolved into the truly splendid museum it is today. In spite of the blemished French legacy, tribute is still paid to Bonaparte in the museum’s courtyard. Tue-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun and holidays 9am-12.15pm.

Palazzo Arcivescovile. If anyone loathed the French revolutionary hordes it was the church. Many churches and convents were subject to the French requisitions. The Archbishop was spared in 1796, but a few years later his well-stocked collection fell victim to the commissioners too. Not open to the public.

La Scala. After much waiting Josephine finally joined her husband in July. Coinciding with the celebration of the Bastille Day, a large gala was held at La Scala, the city’s most important entertainment venue both then and now.

Museo del Risorgimento. Dedicated to the period in Italian history that led to the Italian peninsula’s unity, the museum contains several rooms, which focus on the French influence under Napoleon. Tue-Sun 9am-1pm & 2pm-6pm.

Museo di Milano. As testimony to the history of Milan in the 18th and 19th centuries, the museum covers the period from the Enlightenment to national unity, including the Napoleonic era. The museum is closed for restoration at the time of writing.

Mombello. Home to gossip and intrigue, the country estate of the Crivelli family, located outside of Milan, housed Bonaparte’s headquarters in the summer of 1797. Today it houses a school and is therefore only partially open to the public.

Palazzo Senato. Of all the revolutionary projects launched by the French in 1797, the Cisalpine Republic was the most important. The legislative bodies of the new republic were inaugurated in Palazzo Senato.

Lazaretto. On 9 July 1797 the declaration of the Cisalpine Republic was celebrated in the huge open square of Milan’s former Lazaretto. At present only a church and a few other remainders are left.

Trail VI. Revolt in Pavia

Events: the revolt in Pavia (23 – 25 May 1796)

Stops: Pavia

Duration: ½-1 day

The trail: The Pavia trail traces the dramatic events taking place in Pavia only a few days after Bonaparte had entered Milan, events that temporarily disrupted his plans to resume the pursuit of the Austrians. Weary of the French army’s ruthless behaviour, the citizens of Pavia rose against the French garrison in occupation of the city. Set in the wonderfully preserved old university city of Pavia, recognised as one of the most liveable cities in Italy, the Pavia trail incorporates some of the city’s most important attractions counting the Castello Visconteo, the Broletto and the cathedral square.

Approximate driving time from Pavia to nearby areas of interest:

Events related to Milan (Trail V): 1 hour (often easier to take the train)

Events related to Lodi (Trail IV): 1 hour

Suggested sights to visit:

Il Regisole. On 16 May local revolutionaries erected a tree of liberty in the cathedral square and soon after they tore down the Regisole, an equestrian statue, which to them symbolised oppression.Ever since Augereau’s troops had taken control of Pavia, tension had been mounting in the streets.

Church of Santa Maria del Carmine. On 23 May the population (mostly villagers from Pavia’s surrounding districts) rose against the French garrison to the sound of the tocsin of the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine. Open to the public.

Castello Visconteo. The French garrison failed to defuse the uprising and instead ended up locked up in the Castello Visconteo. Apart from housing the city’s civic museum, the castle also keeps the city’s Museo Risorgimento. The museum was partially closed at the time of writing.

Broletto. The French commander of the garrison attempted to reach a peaceful solution with the city authorities but to no avail. The talks were conducted in the city hall, the Broletto. Not open to the public.

Ponte Coperto. Bonaparte was on the road to the front when the uprising in Pavia broke out. Afraid that the revolt might escalate, he retraced his steps to Milan, organised a punitive force and departed for Pavia. En route troubles had also broken out in Binasco and Lannes’ punitive force had first to clamp down on the rioters here before he was able to resume the march to Pavia. With Lannes’ march across the Ponte Coperto the rioters vanished like dew before the sun.

Palazzo Vescovile. The Milanese Bishop had been persuaded to come along in order to read aloud a proclamation that was designed by Bonaparte to appease the crowd. The second attempt to read it out loud was conducted from the balcony of the bishop’s palace. Not open to the public.

Trail VII. Austrians Defeated at Borghetto

Events: the Battle of Borghetto (30 May 1796).

Stops: Borghetto, Valeggio

Duration: ½-1 day

The trail: The Borghetto trail traces Bonaparte’s resumption of the military advance on the River Mincio at Borghetto, which forced the Austrians to abandon Northern Italy, safe the fortress of Mantua. An otherwise rather insignificant military encounter, the Battle of Borghetto deserves its own trail because it combines perfectly a well-preserved battlefield, beautiful scenery and historical landmarks. And then there is the small village of Borghetto, a charming and reclusive destination for many Italians on weekends.

Approximate driving time from Borghetto/Valeggio to nearby areas of interest:

Events related to Milan (Trail V): 2½ hours (often easier to take the train)

Events related to the uprising in Pavia (Trail VI): 2hours

Events related to the siege of Mantua (Trail VIII): 1hour

Events related to the Battle of Bassano (Trail X): 2 hours

Events related to the Battle of Arcole (Trail XI): 1½ hour

Events related to the Battle of Rivoli (Trail XII): 1½ hour

Events related to the uprising in Verona (Trail XIII): 1 hour

Suggested sights to visit:

Ponte Visconteo, Borghetto. On 30 May the ultra-mobile column under the command of Kilmaine directed the main thrust against a surprisingly weak spot in Beaulieau’s defence of the River Mincio, the bridge at Borghetto.

Castello Scaligero , Borghetto. As the fighting evolved and the French managed to establish a foothold on the opposite bank, the Austrians withdrew up the valley side towards the medieval castle before being forced to leave the scene altogether. Open to the public at all times. The tower is open on weekends.

Palazzo Guarienti , Valeggio. On the same day of fighting, Bonaparte installed his headquarters in the modern Palazzo Guarienti, a stay that almost cost him captivity when an unexpected Austrian force carved its way through the streets of Valeggio. Open to the public.

Villa Maffei, Valeggio. In the spring of 1797 the Veronese took up arms against the series of revolutions sweeping across Venetian soil. Antonio Maffei, a prominent Veronese aristocrat, was entrusted with the defence of the River Mincio (see Trail XIII). Villa Maffei was Maffei’s country residence set in the splendid park, the Sigurtá Park. The park alone is open to the public. Opening hours: Mar-Nov 9am-6pm.

Trail VIII. Bitter Siege of Mantua

Events: the siege of Mantua (4 June 1796 – 2 February 1797).

Stops: Mantua

Duration: 1 day

The trail: For a full eight months the mighty fortress of Mantua remained under French siege. A trying time for the Austrian garrison and the city alike, the Mantua trail, instead of tracing the French troop movements explores the city’s dreadful experience during those eight months. The city boundaries naturally confined by the surrounding lakes, Mantua makes up a perfect background for the trail to unfold and stands out as a wonderful example of a modern city harmoniously thriving within predominantly pre-modern urban structures. The sights include most of the city’s magnificent landmarks such as the Palazzo Ducale, the Cathedral and the Torre Comunale.

Suggested sights to visit:

Porta Giulia. The city fortress of Mantua was once the largest military complex in Northern Italy. Today only a few remnants of the old citadel, such as the Porta Giulia, testify to the past’s mighty fortress. No restrictions on the hours of visiting.

Torre della Gabbia. Mantua’s military commander, Canto d’Irles, had a lot to see to preparing the fortress for the siege. Up-to-date intelligence of enemy movements was obviously of vital importance and a telescope was consequently installed in this tower, serving as the garrison’s chief observation post during the siege. Not open to the public.

Villa della Favorita. The first French troops arrived at the gates of Mantua a few days after Beaulieu’s defeat and installed headquarters in Villa della Favorita, a large rural estate a bit north of the city. Its deplorable state today notwithstanding, the villa still has a majestic air to it. No restrictions on the hours of visiting.

Basilica Sant’ Andrea. By mid-July the French were ready to commence the bombardment. Understanding full well the value of psychological warfare, the French batteries often aimed at the large dome of Sant’ Andrea, a city landmark. Open to the public.

Palazzo Canossa. That their residence in Mantua fell victim to the French batteries didn’t deter the Veronese Canossa family from accommodating Bonaparte in their Veronese home about a year later. Not open to the public.

Palazzo Castiglione. This splendid building, dating back to before the Gonzagas ruled the city, was occupied by the fortress commander, Canto d’Irles, but only until it was damaged by the French bombardment. Not open to the public.

Church of San Barnaba. Yet another unlucky church battered by the French. Open to the public.

Church of Santa Teresa. Splintered domes were not uncommon sights during the bombardment. Open to the public.

Ponte dei Mulini. The French abandoned the siege on 31 July. General Wurmser had set off from the Tyrol and Bonaparte needed all the troops he could muster up for the ensuing struggle. Instead of channelling all his energies towards the French, Wurmser allowed himself a triumphant parade through the streets of Mantua, starting from the causeway, Ponte dei Mulini.

Palazzo Té. Wurmser’s second attempt to relieve Mantua terminated at the foot of Mantua’s walls on 15 September and with nowhere to run, his force ended up inside the fortress. Most of his men were garrisoned in the huge complex of Palazzo Té at the southern grid of Mantua’s defences, once a Gonzaga summer residence. Opening hours: Tue-Sun 9am-6pm.

Museo Diocesano. The extra mouths to feed, the sweltering heat, the suffocating humidity, the meagre supplies and of course the fighting were all factors that contributed to the explosion in the number of individuals in need of medical treatment. The colonnaded inner yard of the building that houses the city’s diocesan museum made a good framework for a hospital. Open to the public.

Duomo di San Pietro. With Wurmser out of the game, General Alvinczy took charge of the Austrian forces in Northern Italy. His first rescue attempt failed bitterly at Arcole on 17 November 1796. His second and last attempt ended up in ruins at Rivoli on 14 January 1797. Wurmser, the new fortress commander, was supposed to have assisted his colleague, but only after Alvinczy had already been defeated did he get his act together. During the brief fighting that ensued underneath the walls of Mantua a stray shot destroyed the cathedral’s choir. Later on the church fell victim to the French art commissioners. Open to the public.

Torre Comunale. The garrison finally surrendered on 2 February 1797, and now that the French were in control, local revolutionaries dared to come out of their hiding places. The feudal coat of arms on the Torre Comunale was one of their first targets. Not open to the public.

Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria. Along with the French army came the art commissioners. The lure of a painting by the famous Italian artist Andrea Mantegna drew their attention to this church. Open to the public.

Church of Santissima Trinità. The art commissioners soon found their way to the church housing a famous masterpiece by Rubens. Only the centrepiece of the original triptych is in Mantua’s possession, now on display in Palazzo Ducale. Not open to the public.

Church of San Francesco. Doubly unfortunate, this church not only received a visit from the French art commissioners, but it was also converted into a barracks. Open to the public.

Palazzo Ducale. The most impressive building in Mantua and home to the Gonzaga rulers, the large complex of Palazzo Ducale played an important role during the siege. In March 1797, while the French were re-organising Mantua’s governmental structures, Bonaparte set up his headquarters in the splendid Tapestry Rooms, which had only just undergone lavish restoration work to suit the taste of the Austrian rulers. Opening hours: Tue-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 9am-2pm.

Museo del Risorgimento. The museum focuses on Mantua’s role in the Italian Risorgimento ranging from the French siege in 1796 to the last years of the unification process in the 1860s. Closed at the time of writing.

Trail IX. Acute Manoeuvring at Castiglione

Events: the First Battle of Lonato (31 July 1796); the Second Battle of Lonato (3 August 1796); the Battle of Castiglione (5 August 1796); the Venetian uprising (April 1797).

Stops: Brescia, Lonato, Castiglione, Solferino, Cavriana, Peschiera, Sirmione

Duration: 2-3 days

The trail: The Castiglione trail has got everything. Chasing the events that led to the first ever real Napoleonic battle in the fields of Castiglione, the battle that terminated the first Austrian attempt to relieve the mighty fortress of Mantua, the Castiglione trail leads the way to abundantly well-preserved battlefields, picturesque sceneries and historic sights. Confined to the morainic region south west of Lake Garda, an area that is often referred to as Little Tuscany, the places of interest are imbued with the history of the Italian unification (the Risorgimento), an awareness that has rubbed off on the attention on Bonaparte’s endeavours as well.

Approximate driving time from Castiglione, Solferino and/or Lonato to nearby areas of interest:

Events related to Milan (trail V): 2½ hours

Events related to the uprising in Pavia (Trail VI): 2 hours

Events related to the Battle of Borghetto (Trail VII): ½ hour

Events related to the siege of Mantua (Trail VIII): 1 hour

Events related to the Battle of Bassano (Trail X): 2 hours

Events related to the Battle of Arcole (Trail XI): 1½ hour

Events related to the Battle of Rivoli (Trail XII): 1½ hour

Events related to the uprising in Verona (Trail XIII): 1 hour

Suggested sights to visit:

Day trip: Army supply station at Brescia

Church of Santa Eufemia, Brescia. The most important city between Milan and the front, Brescia soon transformed into an important supply station for the French army. The first time Bonaparte entered Brescia he stayed in this church, which at the time was used to accommodate travellers a sort of hostel. Open to thepublic.

Palazzo Fenaroli, Brescia. On a more permanent basis Bonaparte’s headquarters were installed in Palazzo Fenaroli. Bonaparte and Josephine were together here when Wurmser’s columns came charging down from the Tyrol. Not open to thepublic.

Museo Risorgimento, Brescia. Beautifully set in the old structures of the city’s magnificent castle fortress, the museum covers the period in Italian history that led to the country’s unity (the Risorgimento). The first and very large room of the museum focuses on the French influence under Napoleon, particularly rich in prints spanning his life. June-Sept 10am-5pm, Oct-May 9.30am-1pm & 2.30pm-5pm, Mon closed.

Palazzo Poncali, Brescia. On 17 March 1797 Brescia’s local revolutionaries met secretly in this palace, planning to overturn the Venetian government. Not open to the public.

Broletto, Brescia. The day after the secret meeting, 18 March 1797, Brescia’s revolutionaries converged on the Venetian government in the Broletto and forced it to step down. The building will be open during normal work hours.

Piazza della Loggia, Brescia. The revolutionaries were not slow to perform the symbolic acts customary of the French revolution. In the city’s main square a tree of liberty was erected.

Day trip:The battlefield of Lonato

La Rocca di Lonato, Lonato. In the first days of hectic fighting, two battles were fought out at the foot of the imposing castle looming above Lonato. Apart from being an integral part of the events between 29 July and 5 August, the castle walls also offer splendid views of the various scenes of action. Easter-Sep 9am-8pm.

Casa del Podestà, Lonato. Next to the castle lies the beautifully preserved Casa del Podestà, which fell victim to French marauders during the tumultuous days of fighting. Today it houses a unique collection of old paintings, furniture, books and household objects. Easter-Sep 9am-8pm.

Via Fontanella, Lonato. On 31 July, the day of the First Battle of Lonato, Bonaparte spent the night in this – for him – unusually small house. Not open to the public.

Sights related to Verona, Trail XIII:

Colonna Veneta, Lonato. Emboldened by events in Brescia, local revolutionaries in Lonato overturned the town’s Venetian column. A few days later, counterrevolutionaries marched into town. One of their first acts was to re-erect the column.

Palazzo Municipale, Lonato. Revolutionaries were locked up in the town’s governing building. The building will be open during normal work hours.
Day trip:The battlefield of Castiglione

Casa Caravaggio, Castiglione. The last details of Bonaparte’s battle plan were worked out in the early hours of 5 August in this house in Castiglione. Not open to the public.

Grole heights, Grole. The Grole heights formed the centre of the French battle position on 5 August. They also offer a very good view of the battlefield as seen from the French side.

La Rocca, Solferino. The Austrian command centre pivoted around the vantage point of the Rocca, a fortified tower also known as the Spy of Italy. Apart from a small museum, the tower offers a perfect panoramic view of the Castiglione battlefield. Opening hours: Apr-Sep 9am-12.30pm & 2pm-6.30pm, Oct-Mar 9am-12.30pm & 2pm-5.30pm, Mon closed.

Cavriana village. When General Fiorella arrived on the battlefield he took up position in front of the small village of Cavriana. The old castle ruins on top of the village gave him command of a very good vantage point.

Museo Storico Risorgimentale, Solferino. Although the museum covers solely the Battle of Solferino (1859), a visit is still useful for a better understanding of pre-modern warfare. Opening hours: Apr-Sep 9am-12.30pm & 2pm-6.30pm, Oct-Mar 9am-12.30pm & 2pm-5.30pm, Mon closed.

Red Cross Museum, Castiglione. The Battle of Solferino (1859) inspired Henry Dunant to establish the medical organisation of the International Red Cross. The museum contains medical tools that are not that different from those in use in 1796. Opening hours: Oct-Mar 9am-12pm & 2pm-5.30pm, Apr-Sep 9am-12.30pm & 3pm-7pm, Mon closed.

Day trip: Austrian stronghold in Sirmione and Peschiera

Fortress of Peschiera. The cause of much strife between Bonaparte and Venice, the monumental fortress is an excellent example of the extensive construction of military fortresses during Venetian rule.

Sirmione castle. On 3 August 1796 Austrian gunboats sent out from the Castle of Sirmione rescued several Austrians in flight from the battle scene of Lonato. Opening hours: Apr-Oct 8.30am-7.30pm, Nov-Mar 8.30am-5pm.

Trail X. Secluded March to Bassano

Events: the Battle of Calliano (4 September 1796); the occupation of Trent (5 September 1796); the Battle of Primolano (7 September 1796); the Battle of Bassano (8 September 1796).

Stops: Calliano, Trent, Primolano, Bassano

Duration: 2 days

The trail: Immersed in the dramatic landscape of the Adige and the Brenta valleys, the Bassano trail traces the second Austrian attempt to relieve Mantua. Investigating the main military encounters and the overthrow of the Bishopric of Trent, the trail culminates in Bassano, a wonderfully relaxing city at the Brenta valley’s outlet. Here the two adversaries, Bonaparte and Wurmser, took turns to occupy the Palazzo Roberti during what was a very trying time for Bassano’s citizens.

Approximate driving time from Bassano to nearby areas of interest:

Events related to the Battle of Borghetto (Trail VII): 2 hours

Events related to the siege of Mantua (Trail VIII): 2½hours

Events related to the Battle of Arcole (Trail XI): 2hours

Events related to the Battle of Rivoli (Trail XII): 2hours

Events related to the uprising in Verona (Trail XIII): 1½ hours

Distance from Bassano to Trent: 85 km

Distance from Bassano to Venice: 60 km

Distance from Bassano to Verona: 100 km

Suggested sights to visit:

Day trip:The Adige Valley

Castel Pietra, Rovereto. On 2 September Bonaparte set off for the Tyrol. Two days later Massena, having first dispersed the enemy outposts in his way, ran into a seemingly strong fortified position at La Pietra. Open by appointment only. Tel: 0464 430363.

Castel Beseno, Calliano. Although Castel Beseno played no direct role in the Battle of Calliano, the old castle, dramatically positioned high above the valley bed, offers a perfect view of Calliano and Rovereto, the two hottest spots during the fighting. Apr-Oct, Tues-Sun 9am-12pm, 2pm-5pm, Jul-Sep 9am-6pm.

Castello del Buonconsiglio, Trent. On 5 September Bonaparte entered Trent. He established his headquarters in the magnificent castle of the ruling Prince-Bishop who had only just fled the city. Opening hours: 10am to 6pm in summer months; vary in winter.
Daytrip:The Brenta valley and Bassano

Castello di Scala, Primolano. When Bonaparte learned that Wurmser had hurled the bulk of his forces down the Brenta valley he immediately decided to take up pursuit, a decision that rendered the French fully dependent on local supplies. On 7 September the French attacked the Austrian rearguard at Primolano. The fortress was later destroyed but the view is still splendid.

Forte di Covelo, Primolano. Further down the road to Bassano, the defeated Austrians staged a second defence at the inherently strong Forte di Covelo but were again overrun. Not open to the public.

Viale dei Martiri, Bassano. It’s only a short march from Cismon to Bassano and in the early hours of 8 September Bonaparte had his troops march against Bassano. The northern perimeter of the old city of Bassano offers a panoramic view of the Brenta valley outlet.

Ponte Vecchio, Bassano. The Battle of Bassano on 8 September culminated when Massena’s advance guard stormed the Ponte Vecchio breaching the town’s defences.

Porta delle Grazie, Bassano. While Massena burst through the Ponte Vecchio, Augereau defeated the Austrian positions to the north of Bassano, entering the city via Porta delle Grazie.

Porta Dieda, Bassano. By around midday the French were able to lay claim to the control of Bassano, allowing Bonaparte to march from the Porta Dieda to the Piazza Libertà in triumph.

Palazzo Roberti, Bassano. Bonaparte installed army headquarters in Palazzo Roberti, spending the night in the very same room that Wurmser had slept in a few hours before. Today the building houses a bookshop. Opening hours: normal working hours.

Church of San Francesco, Bassano. The injured French soldiers were attended to a few blocks down from Palazzo Roberti in the church of San Francesco. Open to the public.

Museo Civico, Bassano. The birth place of Antonio Canova, the great contemporary sculptor who was highly dissatisfied with the French army’s reckless and illegal requisition of art, is located only a few kilometres away from Bassano and it is therefore only natural that Bassano’s civic museum displays several of his works, some of which are of Napoleonic interest. Tues-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 3.30pm-6.30pm.

Trail XI. Near-Defeat at Arcole

Events: the Battle of Arcole (15 – 17 November 1796).

Stops: Caldiero, Arcole, Ronco

Duration: ½ day

The trail: Led there be no doubt that the Arcole trail is not the most exhilarating. Confined to an uninteresting corner of Italy, the agricultural flat land south of Verona, the scenery fails to live up to the dramatic events of the Austrians’ third attempt to relieve Mantua, a military encounter that has otherwise spell bounded readers for more than 200 years. The trail should be reserved for Napoleonic die-hards only.

Suggested sights to visit:

Ronco headquarters (Municipio). For the three days that the Battle of Arcole lasted (15-17 November), Bonaparte had his headquarters installed in Ronco, the centre of operation. By climbing the dykes at Ronco one gets an idea of the  significant obstacle presented by the River Adige. Opening hours: normal working hours.

The Bridge of Arcole, Arcole. A visit to the modern bridge at Arcole is an anti-climax. It is not the same bridge, it is shorter and the farmland has long since been drained. The only thing in the area’s favour is its vast openness providing easy access and good visibility.

Napoleonic monument, Arcole. The Battle of Arcole is commemorated by an obelisk erected adjacent to the bridge.

Museo Napoleonico, Arcole. In the otherwise uninteresting small village of Arcole there is a small museum dedicated to the Battle of Arcole. Closed at the time of writing. Open from March to July.

Trail XII. Glory at Rivoli

Events: the Battle of Rivoli (14 January 1797)

Stops: Malcesine (Monte Baldo), Rivoli

Duration: 1-2 days

The trail: The Battle of Rivoli terminated the Austrians’ fourth and last attempt to relieve Mantua. The trail is another tour de force in military manoeuvres and set in the region of Monte Baldo overlooking Lake Garda, the trail is graced by some of the most beautiful sceneries of the Italian Campaign with rich opportunity to do a bit of hiking. The trail offers spectacular views of the Adige valley, the Dolomites, Lake Garda, Monte Baldo and of course the Rivoli plateau, the hottest spot of the fighting. The small town of Rivoli is proud to associate itself with the Battle of Rivoli and has dedicated a very interesting museum to the battle.

Approximate driving time from Rivoli to nearby areas of interest:

Events related to the Battle of Borghetto (Trail VII): 1 hour

Events related to the siege of Mantua (Trail VIII): 1½hours

Events related to the Battle of Bassano (Trail X): 1¾ hours

Events related to the Battle of Castiglione (Trail IX): 1½ hours

Events related to the uprising in Verona (Trail XIII): 1 hour

Suggested sights to visit:

Day trip: Lusignan's march across Monte Baldo

Malcesine / Monte Baldo. Monte Baldo, rising to more than 2,000m and not exactly a friendly place to get caught up in during the bitterly cold winter months, was the cause of the first Austrian delays. The high altitudes’ freezing temperatures forced General Lusignan’s column off the mountain and down towards Malcesine. The cable car from Malcesine takes the traveller right to the peak of Monte Baldo. Open all year.
Daytrip:The battlefield of Rivoli

Mt. Magnone. Joubert was the first of the French commanders to get a taste of the Austrian columns’ fire-power in the mountains. In the night of 12/13 January he pulled back from Ferrara di Monte Baldo to Rivoli trailing the crest of Mt. Magnone down to the plateau of Rivoli. The trail passes the ruins of the small Chapel of St. Marco, which the two enemies took turns in occupying. The ascent to the southern peak along the marked trail is particularly beautiful and allows for an undisturbed panoramic view of the Adige valley, the Rivoli amphitheatre and Monte Baldo. From the peak, the trail continues down to Lubiara and on to Caprino, the centre of the Austrian battle line.

Church of Rivoli. When Bonaparte arrived in Rivoli at 2am on 14 January, only a few hours before the battle commenced, he found Joubert, the commander of Rivoli until then, in the local church. Open to the public.

Village of Ceraino. The Austrian General Vukassovich positioned artillery on the left bank of the Adige at Ceraino in support of the columns that were to climb out of the valley. The ground in front of Ceraino offers a perfect view of the valley outlet, revealing the strategic importance of Mt. Magnone and the Trombasore heights.

The Pontare highway. Driving up or down the old highway, the Pontare, connecting the Rivoli plateau with the Adige valley, is essential when exploring the battlefield: this was the sunken road, or gorge as some historians have called it, that saw some of the fiercest fighting.

Forte di Wohlgemuth. Although the imposing fortress of Rivoli (impossible to miss) is of later date and therefore had nothing to do with the fighting in 1797, it is nevertheless open to the public and its northern walls offer an undisturbed view of the Rivoli amphitheatre, particularly useful when exploring the valley outlet and the Pontare.

Napoleonic monument. In 1806 Bonaparte had a monument raised on the battlefield of Rivoli. Although the Austrians in tore down the column when passing through in 1814, the secluded monument, or what is left of it, is still worth a visit.

Museo Napoleonico. The museum’s several artefacts including old maps, proclamations, plastic models, and archaeological findings make it an interesting place to visit. The museum is located on Rivoli’s main street not far from the church. Mar-Oct 9.30am-12pm & 3.30pm-6.30pm (closed on Mon and Wed).

Trail XIII. Popular Uprising in Verona

Events: the uprising in Verona (17 – 25 April 1797)

Stops: Verona

Duration: 2 days

The trail: Focusing on the popular uprising in April 1797, the Verona trail in fact spans much further tracking the plight of a city caught in the middle of a violent struggle. Verona still purveys the utopian flair cherished by so many travellers, and it is more than fortunate that the sights playing a part in the Napoleonic tale are among today’s most popular tourist attractions. Palaces and squares bombarded by the French, churches turned hospitals, castles caught up in the fighting and churches pillaged by the French art commissioners; the Verona trail binds together the entire city.

Suggested sights to visit:

Porta S. Zeno . Beaulieu’s defeat on 31 May 1796 meant that the French were free to occupy Verona. The first commander to enter the city was Massena, parading through the city’s western gate on 1 June.

Palazzo Forti. The importance of Verona meant that Bonaparte was a regular visitor to the city, at least until the Pasque Veronesi. Most often he would stay in the Palazzo Forti belonging to Francesco Emilei, a prominent aristocrat, later to be executed by the French for his involvement in the popular uprising. Today it houses the city’s museum of modern art. Opening hours vary according to the exhibitions.

Church of San Eufemia. Because of its geopolitical importance Verona was soon turned into a major French military garrison. In July 1796 the church of San Eufemia was converted into a hospital. Open to the public.

Church of San Bernadino. The successive Austrian offensives took a great toll on the French army. Soon the convent of San Bernadino was also converted into a hospital. Open to the public.

Palazzo Maffei. A magnificent building right in the old city centre and home to one of the most illustrious leaders of the anti-revolutionary movement, Antonio Maffei. Prior to the uprising in Verona, Maffei had been involved in beating back the revolutionaries in the Venetian Republic’s western provinces. Not open to the public.

Castel San Pietro. Looming above the city, the old Castel San Pietro was one of the French garrison’s strongholds. Later demolished by the French, the present castle was built on its ruins, hence the same name. Even though it isn’t open to the public, its grounds still offer a panoramic view of Verona. A bit further up the hill, parts of the old fortress walls testify to the past grandeur of the defence complex, including the public park, the Parco del Castello Visconteo.

Castelvecchio. While the French troops at San Pietro commanded the city’s range of hills, the magnificent fortified castle of Castelvecchio provided the French with a stronghold inside the actual city. Today the castle is home to one of Verona’s most important tourist attractions, the Museo Civico d’Arte. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 8.30am-7.30pm & Mon 1.30pm-7.30pm.

Piazza dei Signori. The rebellion in Verona erupted when the gun crew of Castel San Pietro fired a few shells at the city’s governmental centre in Piazza dei Signori on 17 April 1797. For centuries Verona had been governed from this harmonious square counting the monumental masterpieces of the Loggia del Consiglio, the Palazzo Comunale, the Palazzo del Capitano and the Palazzo della Prefettùra.

Torre Lamberti. When the Veronese authorities had recovered from the initial shock of the bombardment, they took the fatal decision to summon the people to the city’s defence by having the bells of Torre Lamberti, part of Palazzo Comunale, ring out. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 9.30am-7pm.

Porta Nuova. Taking control of the city was among the first steps taken by the rebellious Veronese. The fighting was particular fierce at Porta Nuova.

Gran Guardia. In Piazza Bra a body of French soldiers was trapped in a crossfire barely escaping to the Castelvecchio. Open to the public

Sanctuary of Madonna di Lourdes. While the French commanded the heights of San Pietro, the rebels controlled the heights of San Mattia and San Leonardo north of the city. The sanctuary of Madonna di Lourdes now occupies the hilltop of San Leonardo with a majestic view of the city. Open to the public.

Porta Vescovo. Not even a week went by before the French punitive force arrived at the city gates. Kilmaine, the force’s commander, blockaded the city except fort one gate providing the Venetian representatives with a possible escape route.

Piazza Bra. Verona fell on 25 April. The leading figures of the uprising were arrested and executed while General Augereau imposed a republican regime. In Piazza Bra the revolutionaries erected a tree of liberty.

Palazzo Pellegrini. The fall of the Republic of Venice opened the doors to Verona’s art works. The French art commissioners worked out the logistics in the Palazzo Pellegrini, a neighbour building to the Palazzo Forti. Not open to the public.

Palazzo Bevilacqua. Well-stocked palaces were always popular among the commissioners. Palazzo Bevilacqua with the striking façade was one of the private palaces that fell victim to the French art commissioners. Not open to the public.

Duomo (Cathedral). Works by Titian were sought-after objects and thus the commissioners’ visit to the cathedral. Open to the public.

Church of San Giorgio in Braida. Across the river, not far from the cathedral, the church of San Giorgio in Braida kept two paintings by Paolo Veronese requisitioned by the French. Open to the public.

Church of San Fermo Maggiore. Knowing what to look for, the French art commissioners carved out eight bronze bas-reliefs by Andrea Briosco il Riccio in a small chapel in the back of the church. Open to the public.

Church of Madonna della Vittoria. Paolo Veronese was a local artist, and as there were plenty of his works around there were plenty to steal as well. This church also lost one painting by the renowned artist. Open to the public.

Piazza della Pasque Veronesi. The popular uprising of 1797 is still part of Verona’s collective memory. Every year at Easter a procession commemorating the uprising departs from this small square opposite the Castelvecchio.

Palazzo Canossa. Whenever Bonaparte returned to Verona he stayed in the Palazzo Canossa. Not open to the public.