Napoleon's Italian Campaign. A Travel planner

Events: the siege of Mantua (4 June 1796 – 2 February 1797).

Stops: Mantua

Duration: 1 day

The trail: For a full eight months the mighty fortress of Mantua remained under French siege. A trying time for the Austrian garrison and the city alike, the Mantua trail, instead of tracing the French troop movements explores the city’s dreadful experience during those eight months. The city boundaries naturally confined by the surrounding lakes, Mantua makes up a perfect background for the trail to unfold and stands out as a wonderful example of a modern city harmoniously thriving within predominantly pre-modern urban structures. The sights include most of the city’s magnificent landmarks such as the Palazzo Ducale, the Cathedral and the Torre Comunale.

Suggested sights to visit:

Porta Giulia. The city fortress of Mantua was once the largest military complex in Northern Italy. Today only a few remnants of the old citadel, such as the Porta Giulia, testify to the past’s mighty fortress. No restrictions on the hours of visiting.

Torre della Gabbia. Mantua’s military commander, Canto d’Irles, had a lot to see to preparing the fortress for the siege. Up-to-date intelligence of enemy movements was obviously of vital importance and a telescope was consequently installed in this tower, serving as the garrison’s chief observation post during the siege. Not open to the public.

Villa della Favorita. The first French troops arrived at the gates of Mantua a few days after Beaulieu’s defeat and installed headquarters in Villa della Favorita, a large rural estate a bit north of the city. Its deplorable state today notwithstanding, the villa still has a majestic air to it. No restrictions on the hours of visiting.

Basilica Sant’ Andrea. By mid-July the French were ready to commence the bombardment. Understanding full well the value of psychological warfare, the French batteries often aimed at the large dome of Sant’ Andrea, a city landmark. Open to the public.

Palazzo Canossa. That their residence in Mantua fell victim to the French batteries didn’t deter the Veronese Canossa family from accommodating Bonaparte in their Veronese home about a year later. Not open to the public.

Palazzo Castiglione. This splendid building, dating back to before the Gonzagas ruled the city, was occupied by the fortress commander, Canto d’Irles, but only until it was damaged by the French bombardment. Not open to the public.

Church of San Barnaba. Yet another unlucky church battered by the French. Open to the public.

Church of Santa Teresa. Splintered domes were not uncommon sights during the bombardment. Open to the public.

Ponte dei Mulini. The French abandoned the siege on 31 July. General Wurmser had set off from the Tyrol and Bonaparte needed all the troops he could muster up for the ensuing struggle. Instead of channelling all his energies towards the French, Wurmser allowed himself a triumphant parade through the streets of Mantua, starting from the causeway, Ponte dei Mulini.

Palazzo Té. Wurmser’s second attempt to relieve Mantua terminated at the foot of Mantua’s walls on 15 September and with nowhere to run, his force ended up inside the fortress. Most of his men were garrisoned in the huge complex of Palazzo Té at the southern grid of Mantua’s defences, once a Gonzaga summer residence. Opening hours: Tue-Sun 9am-6pm.

Museo Diocesano. The extra mouths to feed, the sweltering heat, the suffocating humidity, the meagre supplies and of course the fighting were all factors that contributed to the explosion in the number of individuals in need of medical treatment. The colonnaded inner yard of the building that houses the city’s diocesan museum made a good framework for a hospital. Open to the public.

Duomo di San Pietro. With Wurmser out of the game, General Alvinczy took charge of the Austrian forces in Northern Italy. His first rescue attempt failed bitterly at Arcole on 17 November 1796. His second and last attempt ended up in ruins at Rivoli on 14 January 1797. Wurmser, the new fortress commander, was supposed to have assisted his colleague, but only after Alvinczy had already been defeated did he get his act together. During the brief fighting that ensued underneath the walls of Mantua a stray shot destroyed the cathedral’s choir. Later on the church fell victim to the French art commissioners. Open to the public.

Torre Comunale. The garrison finally surrendered on 2 February 1797, and now that the French were in control, local revolutionaries dared to come out of their hiding places. The feudal coat of arms on the Torre Comunale was one of their first targets. Not open to the public.

Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria. Along with the French army came the art commissioners. The lure of a painting by the famous Italian artist Andrea Mantegna drew their attention to this church. Open to the public.

Church of Santissima Trinità. The art commissioners soon found their way to the church housing a famous masterpiece by Rubens. Only the centrepiece of the original triptych is in Mantua’s possession, now on display in Palazzo Ducale. Not open to the public.

Church of San Francesco. Doubly unfortunate, this church not only received a visit from the French art commissioners, but it was also converted into a barracks. Open to the public.

Palazzo Ducale. The most impressive building in Mantua and home to the Gonzaga rulers, the large complex of Palazzo Ducale played an important role during the siege. In March 1797, while the French were re-organising Mantua’s governmental structures, Bonaparte set up his headquarters in the splendid Tapestry Rooms, which had only just undergone lavish restoration work to suit the taste of the Austrian rulers. Opening hours: Tue-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 9am-2pm.

Museo del Risorgimento. The museum focuses on Mantua’s role in the Italian Risorgimento ranging from the French siege in 1796 to the last years of the unification process in the 1860s. Closed at the time of writing.