Napoleon's Italian Campaign. A Travel planner

Events: The death of General La Harpe (8/9 May 1796); the Battle of Lodi (10 May 1796).

Stops: Codogno, Lodi

Duration: 1 day

The trail: The resumption of military activities after the armistice had been concluded brings the traveller to Lodi, one of the mythological highlights of Bonaparte’s campaign. Forming a perfect framework for exploring Bonaparte’s accomplishments at the famous Bridge of Lodi, the modern, affluent city of Lodi has successfully preserved the old city nucleus. The battle in itself was a rather insignificant clash but owing to Bonaparte’s personal involvement in the combat the action has gone down in Napoleonic history as a major event. Bonaparte was to stay in Lodi a few days, preparing among other things the entry of Milan, and the trail accordingly proceeds to explore his business in the city. The Lodi trail also traces the death of General La Harpe, a much-esteemed general who died amidst the chaotic street fighting unfolding during the night of 8/9 May in the town of Codogno.

Suggested sights to visit:

Piazza XX Settembre, Codogno. After the French army burst through the Austrian defences along the River Po at Piacenza, it set out to strengthen its positions on the river’s northern bank. In the night of 8/9 May General La Harpe’s men, resting in Codogno, fell victim to a surprise enemy attack during which La Harpe was killed. The town of Codogno is not the most interesting of places and a visit is only recommended for the die-hard Napoleonic traveller.

Bridge of Lodi, Lodi. Bonaparte’s breach of the Austrian line of defence came with such force that only a headless flight across the River Adda saved the Austrians from destruction. On 10 May Bonaparte personally took command of the attack on the Austrian rear guard left behind to guard the crossing at Lodi. Although the original wooden bridge was destroyed in 1859, the modern bridge, situated in more or less the same place, offers a very good impression of what the scenery would have looked like in 1796.

Church of San Francesco, Lodi. Several of Lodi’s church towers offered the French vantage points. Bonaparte climbed the steeple of San Francesco to inspect the enemy defences. Open to the public.

Palazzo Modignani, Lodi. During the few days the army was allowed some rest Bonaparte stayed in the Baroque Palazzo Modignani. Not open to the public.

Palazzo Vescovile, Lodi. On 11 May Bonaparte dined with the Bishop of Lodi. The building houses the town’s diocesan museum. Sun 3pm-6pm.
Palazzo Sommariva, Lodi. The flight of the Austrian army rendered the road to Milan open to the French. Not knowing what to expect from the French, the Milanese sent a delegation to Lodi to discuss the imminent occupation. The meeting took place in Palazzo Sommariva. Not open to the public.

Museo Civico, Lodi. Lodi’s main museum is mainly dedicated to the region’s archaeological history and its famous ceramics industry, but it also keeps a wonderful painting of the Battle of Lodi. Sat & Sun 3pm-6.30pm (winter), 9.30am-12.30pm (summer), except August (closed).