Napoleon's Italian Campaign. A Travel planner

Events: the uprising in Verona (17 – 25 April 1797)

Stops: Verona

Duration: 2 days

The trail: Focusing on the popular uprising in April 1797, the Verona trail in fact spans much further tracking the plight of a city caught in the middle of a violent struggle. Verona still purveys the utopian flair cherished by so many travellers, and it is more than fortunate that the sights playing a part in the Napoleonic tale are among today’s most popular tourist attractions. Palaces and squares bombarded by the French, churches turned hospitals, castles caught up in the fighting and churches pillaged by the French art commissioners; the Verona trail binds together the entire city.

Suggested sights to visit:

Porta S. Zeno . Beaulieu’s defeat on 31 May 1796 meant that the French were free to occupy Verona. The first commander to enter the city was Massena, parading through the city’s western gate on 1 June.

Palazzo Forti. The importance of Verona meant that Bonaparte was a regular visitor to the city, at least until the Pasque Veronesi. Most often he would stay in the Palazzo Forti belonging to Francesco Emilei, a prominent aristocrat, later to be executed by the French for his involvement in the popular uprising. Today it houses the city’s museum of modern art. Opening hours vary according to the exhibitions.

Church of San Eufemia. Because of its geopolitical importance Verona was soon turned into a major French military garrison. In July 1796 the church of San Eufemia was converted into a hospital. Open to the public.

Church of San Bernadino. The successive Austrian offensives took a great toll on the French army. Soon the convent of San Bernadino was also converted into a hospital. Open to the public.

Palazzo Maffei. A magnificent building right in the old city centre and home to one of the most illustrious leaders of the anti-revolutionary movement, Antonio Maffei. Prior to the uprising in Verona, Maffei had been involved in beating back the revolutionaries in the Venetian Republic’s western provinces. Not open to the public.

Castel San Pietro. Looming above the city, the old Castel San Pietro was one of the French garrison’s strongholds. Later demolished by the French, the present castle was built on its ruins, hence the same name. Even though it isn’t open to the public, its grounds still offer a panoramic view of Verona. A bit further up the hill, parts of the old fortress walls testify to the past grandeur of the defence complex, including the public park, the Parco del Castello Visconteo.

Castelvecchio. While the French troops at San Pietro commanded the city’s range of hills, the magnificent fortified castle of Castelvecchio provided the French with a stronghold inside the actual city. Today the castle is home to one of Verona’s most important tourist attractions, the Museo Civico d’Arte. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 8.30am-7.30pm & Mon 1.30pm-7.30pm.

Piazza dei Signori. The rebellion in Verona erupted when the gun crew of Castel San Pietro fired a few shells at the city’s governmental centre in Piazza dei Signori on 17 April 1797. For centuries Verona had been governed from this harmonious square counting the monumental masterpieces of the Loggia del Consiglio, the Palazzo Comunale, the Palazzo del Capitano and the Palazzo della Prefettùra.

Torre Lamberti. When the Veronese authorities had recovered from the initial shock of the bombardment, they took the fatal decision to summon the people to the city’s defence by having the bells of Torre Lamberti, part of Palazzo Comunale, ring out. Opening hours: Tues-Sun 9.30am-7pm.

Porta Nuova. Taking control of the city was among the first steps taken by the rebellious Veronese. The fighting was particular fierce at Porta Nuova.

Gran Guardia. In Piazza Bra a body of French soldiers was trapped in a crossfire barely escaping to the Castelvecchio. Open to the public

Sanctuary of Madonna di Lourdes. While the French commanded the heights of San Pietro, the rebels controlled the heights of San Mattia and San Leonardo north of the city. The sanctuary of Madonna di Lourdes now occupies the hilltop of San Leonardo with a majestic view of the city. Open to the public.

Porta Vescovo. Not even a week went by before the French punitive force arrived at the city gates. Kilmaine, the force’s commander, blockaded the city except fort one gate providing the Venetian representatives with a possible escape route.

Piazza Bra. Verona fell on 25 April. The leading figures of the uprising were arrested and executed while General Augereau imposed a republican regime. In Piazza Bra the revolutionaries erected a tree of liberty.

Palazzo Pellegrini. The fall of the Republic of Venice opened the doors to Verona’s art works. The French art commissioners worked out the logistics in the Palazzo Pellegrini, a neighbour building to the Palazzo Forti. Not open to the public.

Palazzo Bevilacqua. Well-stocked palaces were always popular among the commissioners. Palazzo Bevilacqua with the striking façade was one of the private palaces that fell victim to the French art commissioners. Not open to the public.

Duomo (Cathedral). Works by Titian were sought-after objects and thus the commissioners’ visit to the cathedral. Open to the public.

Church of San Giorgio in Braida. Across the river, not far from the cathedral, the church of San Giorgio in Braida kept two paintings by Paolo Veronese requisitioned by the French. Open to the public.

Church of San Fermo Maggiore. Knowing what to look for, the French art commissioners carved out eight bronze bas-reliefs by Andrea Briosco il Riccio in a small chapel in the back of the church. Open to the public.

Church of Madonna della Vittoria. Paolo Veronese was a local artist, and as there were plenty of his works around there were plenty to steal as well. This church also lost one painting by the renowned artist. Open to the public.

Piazza della Pasque Veronesi. The popular uprising of 1797 is still part of Verona’s collective memory. Every year at Easter a procession commemorating the uprising departs from this small square opposite the Castelvecchio.

Palazzo Canossa. Whenever Bonaparte returned to Verona he stayed in the Palazzo Canossa. Not open to the public.