Napoleon's Italian Campaign. A Travel planner

Events: the First Battle of Lonato (31 July 1796); the Second Battle of Lonato (3 August 1796); the Battle of Castiglione (5 August 1796); the Venetian uprising (April 1797).

Stops: Brescia, Lonato, Castiglione, Solferino, Cavriana, Peschiera, Sirmione

Duration: 2-3 days

The trail: The Castiglione trail has got everything. Chasing the events that led to the first ever real Napoleonic battle in the fields of Castiglione, the battle that terminated the first Austrian attempt to relieve the mighty fortress of Mantua, the Castiglione trail leads the way to abundantly well-preserved battlefields, picturesque sceneries and historic sights. Confined to the morainic region south west of Lake Garda, an area that is often referred to as Little Tuscany, the places of interest are imbued with the history of the Italian unification (the Risorgimento), an awareness that has rubbed off on the attention on Bonaparte’s endeavours as well.

Approximate driving time from Castiglione, Solferino and/or Lonato to nearby areas of interest:

Events related to Milan (trail V): 2½ hours

Events related to the uprising in Pavia (Trail VI): 2 hours

Events related to the Battle of Borghetto (Trail VII): ½ hour

Events related to the siege of Mantua (Trail VIII): 1 hour

Events related to the Battle of Bassano (Trail X): 2 hours

Events related to the Battle of Arcole (Trail XI): 1½ hour

Events related to the Battle of Rivoli (Trail XII): 1½ hour

Events related to the uprising in Verona (Trail XIII): 1 hour

Suggested sights to visit:

Day trip: Army supply station at Brescia

Church of Santa Eufemia, Brescia. The most important city between Milan and the front, Brescia soon transformed into an important supply station for the French army. The first time Bonaparte entered Brescia he stayed in this church, which at the time was used to accommodate travellers a sort of hostel. Open to thepublic.

Palazzo Fenaroli, Brescia. On a more permanent basis Bonaparte’s headquarters were installed in Palazzo Fenaroli. Bonaparte and Josephine were together here when Wurmser’s columns came charging down from the Tyrol. Not open to thepublic.

Museo Risorgimento, Brescia. Beautifully set in the old structures of the city’s magnificent castle fortress, the museum covers the period in Italian history that led to the country’s unity (the Risorgimento). The first and very large room of the museum focuses on the French influence under Napoleon, particularly rich in prints spanning his life. June-Sept 10am-5pm, Oct-May 9.30am-1pm & 2.30pm-5pm, Mon closed.

Palazzo Poncali, Brescia. On 17 March 1797 Brescia’s local revolutionaries met secretly in this palace, planning to overturn the Venetian government. Not open to the public.

Broletto, Brescia. The day after the secret meeting, 18 March 1797, Brescia’s revolutionaries converged on the Venetian government in the Broletto and forced it to step down. The building will be open during normal work hours.

Piazza della Loggia, Brescia. The revolutionaries were not slow to perform the symbolic acts customary of the French revolution. In the city’s main square a tree of liberty was erected.

Day trip:The battlefield of Lonato

La Rocca di Lonato, Lonato. In the first days of hectic fighting, two battles were fought out at the foot of the imposing castle looming above Lonato. Apart from being an integral part of the events between 29 July and 5 August, the castle walls also offer splendid views of the various scenes of action. Easter-Sep 9am-8pm.

Casa del Podestà, Lonato. Next to the castle lies the beautifully preserved Casa del Podestà, which fell victim to French marauders during the tumultuous days of fighting. Today it houses a unique collection of old paintings, furniture, books and household objects. Easter-Sep 9am-8pm.

Via Fontanella, Lonato. On 31 July, the day of the First Battle of Lonato, Bonaparte spent the night in this – for him – unusually small house. Not open to the public.

Sights related to Verona, Trail XIII:

Colonna Veneta, Lonato. Emboldened by events in Brescia, local revolutionaries in Lonato overturned the town’s Venetian column. A few days later, counterrevolutionaries marched into town. One of their first acts was to re-erect the column.

Palazzo Municipale, Lonato. Revolutionaries were locked up in the town’s governing building. The building will be open during normal work hours.
Day trip:The battlefield of Castiglione

Casa Caravaggio, Castiglione. The last details of Bonaparte’s battle plan were worked out in the early hours of 5 August in this house in Castiglione. Not open to the public.

Grole heights, Grole. The Grole heights formed the centre of the French battle position on 5 August. They also offer a very good view of the battlefield as seen from the French side.

La Rocca, Solferino. The Austrian command centre pivoted around the vantage point of the Rocca, a fortified tower also known as the Spy of Italy. Apart from a small museum, the tower offers a perfect panoramic view of the Castiglione battlefield. Opening hours: Apr-Sep 9am-12.30pm & 2pm-6.30pm, Oct-Mar 9am-12.30pm & 2pm-5.30pm, Mon closed.

Cavriana village. When General Fiorella arrived on the battlefield he took up position in front of the small village of Cavriana. The old castle ruins on top of the village gave him command of a very good vantage point.

Museo Storico Risorgimentale, Solferino. Although the museum covers solely the Battle of Solferino (1859), a visit is still useful for a better understanding of pre-modern warfare. Opening hours: Apr-Sep 9am-12.30pm & 2pm-6.30pm, Oct-Mar 9am-12.30pm & 2pm-5.30pm, Mon closed.

Red Cross Museum, Castiglione. The Battle of Solferino (1859) inspired Henry Dunant to establish the medical organisation of the International Red Cross. The museum contains medical tools that are not that different from those in use in 1796. Opening hours: Oct-Mar 9am-12pm & 2pm-5.30pm, Apr-Sep 9am-12.30pm & 3pm-7pm, Mon closed.

Day trip: Austrian stronghold in Sirmione and Peschiera

Fortress of Peschiera. The cause of much strife between Bonaparte and Venice, the monumental fortress is an excellent example of the extensive construction of military fortresses during Venetian rule.

Sirmione castle. On 3 August 1796 Austrian gunboats sent out from the Castle of Sirmione rescued several Austrians in flight from the battle scene of Lonato. Opening hours: Apr-Oct 8.30am-7.30pm, Nov-Mar 8.30am-5pm.